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Bow Walker
01-10-2007, 07:51 PM
OK you old/new/wannabe archers........let's all help each other with our technical problems/questions and what-have-you.

Who wants to start?

willyqbc
01-10-2007, 08:56 PM
In the next few weeks i will try and post up information on a variety of subjects and I will also try and do some short video's showing how to do some basic stuff like center servings, tying on loops, and that sort of thing. If you guys have any good technical articles or the like post em up here!

Chris

Hunter4life
01-10-2007, 09:11 PM
How do you sharpen broadheads? At what point do you consider the blade to be no longer worthy of use? BTW, i use replaceable blade broadheads.

h4l

bsa30-06
01-10-2007, 09:13 PM
I haven't been shooting a bow long enough to contribute to a thread like this , but i'm sure interested in reading this thread.Good idea bowWalker, lookin forward to this one.Thanxs.

willyqbc
01-10-2007, 10:39 PM
Hunter4life...why don't you go ahead and post your question in its own thread....I'm sure you will get lots of good answers!!

Chris

Kirby
01-10-2007, 11:14 PM
How do you sharpen broadheads? At what point do you consider the blade to be no longer worthy of use? BTW, i use replaceable blade broadheads.

h4l

If your shooting replaceable blades I would stick with brand new blades. Don't touch them up. Your likely going to make them more dull than they are. Go with brand new blades for hunting. New blades every season or two and you should be fine unless your always taking out and putting your arrow in the quiver, then maybe watch the one head. Watch for rust etc, a light coating of oil can help with that. If the blades are rusting, toss them. If they are chipped toss them.

If your shooting fixed like Montecs, then its a different story. Then its time to play with the stone.


Kirby

Bow Walker
01-11-2007, 09:06 AM
I shoot two different broadheads - Razorcaps and Slick Tricks. The Slick Tricks are replaceable blade heads and (not to contradict Kirby, but...) I have had great success in sharpening the used blades.

What I do is remove the blades from the ferrule and clamp them in a pair of needle-nose locking pliers (i don't have a lansky set up). Then I get out the wet stone and, carefully keeping the same angle as the original, I start stroking and stropping to bring the blade back to life.

This is - or can be - a bit of a lengthy process but it works for me. It should work for you if you have had any experience sharpening your hunting/skinning knives.

hope this helps you................Dan

oldtimer
01-11-2007, 04:48 PM
First thing I learned when I got my first bow and even though it sounds silly to have to say it, you never know what new people to the sport will do. NEVER DRY FIRE YOUR BOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Kirby
01-11-2007, 05:53 PM
(not to contradict Kirby, but...) I have had great success in sharpening the used blades.


Don't get me wrong, I do it too, however if you've never sharpened before its easier to just get new blades. Your method works well, I use Vice grips to do it in the same mannor.

And to add to Oldtimers, NEVER FIRE WOOD ARROWS OUT OF A COMPOUND!!!!!

Kirby

Bow Walker
01-11-2007, 06:34 PM
Don't get me wrong, I do it too, however if you've never sharpened before its easier to just get new blades. Your method works well, I use Vice grips to do it in the same mannor.

And to add to Oldtimers, NEVER FIRE WOOD ARROWS OUT OF A COMPOUND!!!!!

Kirby
Excellent advice on the wood arrows from a compound Kirby. Not a question that gets asked normally, but one worth mentioning for sure.

Visegrips! For the life of me I couldn't think of the name for those "locking pliers" that I use.http://smileys.smileycentral.com/cat/4/4_13_14.gif (http://www.smileycentral.com/?partner=ZSzeb001_ZSYYYYYYJOCA)

Eagle1
01-13-2007, 10:40 PM
No problem sharpening my own blades, {fixed and expandables } I use a Gatco { like a Lansky } It just takes a bit of time and practise, I can get them as sharp or sharper than factory. Why buy new [ I'm not made of money } when the blades only need touching up from going in the quiver, it's also a part of hunting, like sharpening your hunting knives,but not to cut yourself triming tomato plants.
I use vaselene on my broadheads as it doesn't smell like oil does, and it helps seal the broadhaed in the quiver so hardly no water gets in.

Bow Walker
01-14-2007, 08:00 AM
No problem sharpening my own blades, {fixed and expandables } I use a Gatco { like a Lansky } It just takes a bit of time and practise, I can get them as sharp or sharper than factory. Why buy new [ I'm not made of money } when the blades only need touching up from going in the quiver, it's also a part of hunting, like sharpening your hunting knives,but not to cut yourself triming tomato plants.
I use vaselene on my broadheads as it doesn't smell like oil does, and it helps seal the broadhaed in the quiver so hardly no water gets in.

I heard that Sampson!!:frown:

rageous
01-14-2007, 04:18 PM
here's one.....


How do all you feather fletch shooters waterproof your feathers. I bought some powder stuff but haven't tried it yet, is there any other methods of waterproofing,

nick

willyqbc
01-14-2007, 08:33 PM
Tip i was given by some trad shooters is to spray them with aerosol hairspray. I have never done it myself as the only feathers i shoot are for indoor fita, but the fellows who gave me the tip are very seasoned archers who know what works.

Chris

Bow Walker
01-14-2007, 09:03 PM
I've heard of some archers(?) using WD-40! Don't shoot me - I'm just the messenger.

Onesock
01-14-2007, 09:09 PM
Don't worry about waterproofing your feathers. If you are shooting the proper spined shafts, even if your feathers are flat your arrows should still shoot well. Or don't hunt in the rain. Hairspray is only good if you want the deer to smell you, use scotch guard if you want to spary something on your feathers to waterproof them.

Sideofabarn
01-14-2007, 10:27 PM
Can I quieten a takedown? I have an AIM recurve, and I wonder about hunting with it as it seems particularly noisy, but no I haven't tried string silencers. I can always keep it as a muck around bow, as I have my fancy pants compound, and in the future would like to get say a Fred Bear recurve for hunting.

Bow Walker
01-15-2007, 09:10 AM
Not being a Trad or Recurve shooter I can only suggest that you try the string silencers as soon as possible - if the noise is originating from the string that is.

I have seen recurves with string silencers as well as limb socks.

One question though, do you shoot with a quiver attached? That might be the source of your noise.

willyqbc
01-15-2007, 09:36 AM
do you check for brace height each time you re string the bow? if your not shooting it to its full proper brace height a recurve can get noisy. We had a kid in our JOP program whose bow was quite noisy....we twisted up the string to get his brace height proper and it quieted right down!

Chris

greybark
01-15-2007, 08:55 PM
:) Hey Sideofabarn , Three things to check . As Willy posted a lack of proper braceheight will allow the tips of your limbs to vibrate after the arrow is launched . The noisey vibration is felt and vibrating tips can be seen . Continue tuning with a few turns of your string between shots untill the limbs stop dead after the arrow leaves the bow . It should be pointed out that most recurves like a braceheight of around 7 1/2 in and too much will result in your power stroke being shortened (decreased arrow speed) .
:) Improper spine will cause your arrow to strike your riser . Recurves with their generous centercut like arrows up to 10lbs heavier than the bow rating . Some Recurves have too much centercut in the riser and should be filled out as to induce the arrow to do the "archers paridox" thing and bend around the riser.
:) Too light of an arrow is the main cause of bow noise and is easy to figure out . Your bow will tell you (by the amount of noise) what weight of arrow it likes .
If required top all of the above with string silencers for a very quiet and lethal hunting setup. Good luck ....

REMEMBER -- Keep Your Fingertab On --

Sideofabarn
01-15-2007, 10:10 PM
No guys I have never thought to recheck my brace height whenever I restring my bow, guess I should start that huh? I got a trial pack of gold tips as suggested to my by the sales guy where I bought the bow (the famed three rivers archery in Indiana) so I sort of assumed he was looking out for me... I am finding that the 5575's seem to be the most consistent thus far. I will listen from now on to see if I can discern arrow weight with shot noise.
Thanks for the feedback guys!
Oh and greybark, I see you are a traditional guy, would you prefer a recurve or a longbow for hunting? I found that the recurve is much easier to draw than a longbow of similar poundage, and love the simplicity of the longbow.

greybark
01-16-2007, 09:14 PM
:) Hey Sideofabarn , basicly to-days longbows match recurves in performance . The shootabilaty of each differ slightly . The draw of a recurve is smoother and less likely to stack than a longbow . The formed handles that recurves have can be prone to torqueing and therefore are shot with a loose hand for that purpose . The longbow is fully and firmly gripped and the length of the bow creates more stability than the recurve during the launch . It must be pointed out that the weight of the recurves larger massed riser will help stabilize the bow whereas the light weighted long bow riser will have a tendancy to float more during the shot process .
:) When all of the above is factored in it works out to a shootability tie .
Threre is an appealing simplicity to both bows with an extraorinary awary of facinating woods now available .
:cry: Treestanding can be a bit more awkward with a longbow.
:smile: Have both and have no favourites .

REMEMBER -- Keep Your Fingertab On -

Eagle1
01-17-2007, 09:21 PM
Don't worry about waterproofing your feathers. If you are shooting the proper spined shafts, even if your feathers are flat your arrows should still shoot well. Or don't hunt in the rain. Hairspray is only good if you want the deer to smell you, use scotch guard if you want to spary something on your feathers to waterproof them.

If you shoot with a compound you don't have to worry about the weather :evil:
{ PLastic fletch }
There is comercialy made water proofing.But remember it can't smell or the game will.
But as Onesock said " if the arrow is spined correct it will fly true", wet or dry.

greybark
01-17-2007, 09:40 PM
:) If I remember , I use Hardys Dry Fly Dressing . Silicone base and no odour .

REMEMBER -- Keep Your Fingertab On --

Bow Walker
01-18-2007, 07:49 AM
Bare shaft tuning is supposed to be done with field tips. Tuning broadheads is a whole different ball o' wax.

Check out Eagle1's post over in the thread "Where to start tuning?"

http://www.huntingbc.ca/forum/showthread.php?t=9738&page=2