Arrows - Build vs buy...

[Franko Manini]

How many of us bow hunters build our own arrows? I am thinking of getting into it. Any advice on equipment, materials (vanes for broadheads, shafts, inserts) etc?

How many of us buy their arrows?

Any advantages/disadvantages to either buying or building?

It's the classic debate of build versus buy...

[sealevel]

Build your own ! buy a fletcher and some vanes and start . Its way cheaper and you`ll get better arrows.

[Bow Walker]

That's just what I spent the better part of this afternoon doing, Franko. Building arrows.

I recently got into building arrows and I find it about as satisfying as tying a really nice looking fly and then going out there and catching a humongous trout with it.


The obvious first benefit is self satisfaction in doing something for yourself that not every person is willing to tackle. Cost savings are secondary as they are not tremendous, nor are they particularly notable - cost savings are actually minimal.

What you get is an arrow built to your own specifications. You choose exactly what components go into the making of your arrow. You can't always get that from buying "over-the-counter" arrows.

For instance, I use GT shafts, GT inserts, Blazer vanes (2" for broadheads and 1.5" for 3D), GT pin nock bushing with GT pin nocks to finish the arrow. My arrows are cut to my personal preference - which can be done for a fee at the pro shop - with my own arrow saw, and then the fun begins. And it is fun.

As for equipment....start with an arrow cut-off saw (Harbour Freight makes a good, inexpensive one), then get a good fletching jig (blitzenburg is your best bet there). After that you need the obvious - inserts, nocks, your choice of feathers or vanes, and the proper glue. Not to mention a few well chosen tools to clean, square, and prep the shafts.

A wee tad bit of advice here - buy a good fletching jig. You won't regret it. Also be careful what glues you use. Some are better than others and yet some others are just junk.

For anyone interested I have a feather burner that I don't use and wish to see go to a good home.:wink:

[puppychow]

Most of the archers I shoot with build our own arrows, it is one way to get together and shoot the breeze. We have been doing it for several years. We started building arrows and now make our own strings and cables. You learn more about archery and there is great satisfaction in using something that you create. The initial cost is quite substatial for the initial set-up, but we have always shared the cost. We were lucky enough to have a co-worker that was very good at fabricating. He made a bench bow press and other things for archery. We now have several fletching jigs, many of the components and several of the required tools. Enjoy archery as a ways to the great outdoors and a indoor hobby for those miserable stormy days. Hope to see you at the archery ranges.

[Bow Walker]

Franko.......
Here's a pic of my bow maintenance setup. The cutoff saw is on the right.
http://www.huntingbc.ca/photos/data/500/thumbs/Bow_MaintenancePostableSept_28a_001.JPG (http://www.huntingbc.ca/photos/showphoto.php?photo=3217&cat=500&ppuser=529)

[willyqbc]

There can be a signifigant cost savings to building your own arrows if you are doing your own cutting. Here's how...by making your own arrows you can can buy a lower quailty shaft and turn it into a top quality arrow. This relates to carbon shafts only. Lets use gold tip as an example... i Can buy XT expidition hunters for around $80 a dozen, the Pro's will cost me about $125/doz...the biggest difference between these two shafts is that the XT expiditions have a straightness tolerance of .006 and the Pro's is .001. Now in the manufacturing of carbon shafts you will always get your most variation at the ends of the shafts because it loses some structural integrity where the cut is made. BUT....if you cut your own arrows, instead of just cutting from one end like most people and shops do....cut equal amounts from both ends, this will eliminate the largest portion of the variation and will give you a Pro quality shaft for an XT Expedition price!:) The other great thing about building your own is you can mix and match components to get your arrows to weigh as close to the the same weight as possible...again a lot of shops won't do this.
Plus its a lot of fun and very satisfying!

Chris

[Tank]

There can be a signifigant cost savings to building your own arrows if you are doing your own cutting. Here's how...by making your own arrows you can can buy a lower quailty shaft and turn it into a top quality arrow. This relates to carbon shafts only. Lets use gold tip as an example... i Can buy XT expidition hunters for around $80 a dozen, the Pro's will cost me about $125/doz...the biggest difference between these two shafts is that the XT expiditions have a straightness tolerance of .006 and the Pro's is .001. Now in the manufacturing of carbon shafts you will always get your most variation at the ends of the shafts because it loses some structural integrity where the cut is made. BUT....if you cut your own arrows, instead of just cutting from one end like most people and shops do....cut equal amounts from both ends, this will eliminate the largest portion of the variation and will give you a Pro quality shaft for an XT Expedition price!:) The other great thing about building your own is you can mix and match components to get your arrows to weigh as close to the the same weight as possible...again a lot of shops won't do this.
Plus its a lot of fun and very satisfying!

Chris

I must agree. Having Chris custom cut and build all of my arrows for me is fun and very satisfying:lol: !

[willyqbc]

funny guy.........:tongue: just remember I work on your bow too so keep that in mind if your shooting mysteriously goes downhill!!:???:

Chris

[Franko Manini]

Franko.......
Here's a pic of my bow maintenance setup. The cutoff saw is on the right.
http://www.huntingbc.ca/photos/data/500/thumbs/Bow_MaintenancePostableSept_28a_001.JPG (http://www.huntingbc.ca/photos/showphoto.php?photo=3217&cat=500&ppuser=529)

Is that a homemade bow press? Sweet!

[Franko Manini]

That's just what I spent the better part of this afternoon doing, Franko. Building arrows.

I recently got into building arrows and I find it about as satisfying as tying a really nice looking fly and then going out there and catching a humongous trout with it.


The obvious first benefit is self satisfaction in doing something for yourself that not every person is willing to tackle. Cost savings are secondary as they are not tremendous, nor are they particularly notable - cost savings are actually minimal.

What you get is an arrow built to your own specifications. You choose exactly what components go into the making of your arrow. You can't always get that from buying "over-the-counter" arrows.

For instance, I use GT shafts, GT inserts, Blazer vanes (2" for broadheads and 1.5" for 3D), GT pin nock bushing with GT pin nocks to finish the arrow. My arrows are cut to my personal preference - which can be done for a fee at the pro shop - with my own arrow saw, and then the fun begins. And it is fun.

As for equipment....start with an arrow cut-off saw (Harbour Freight makes a good, inexpensive one), then get a good fletching jig (blitzenburg is your best bet there). After that you need the obvious - inserts, nocks, your choice of feathers or vanes, and the proper glue. Not to mention a few well chosen tools to clean, square, and prep the shafts.

A wee tad bit of advice here - buy a good fletching jig. You won't regret it. Also be careful what glues you use. Some are better than others and yet some others are just junk.

For anyone interested I have a feather burner that I don't use and wish to see go to a good home.:wink:

Would someone be willing to compile a complete list of all the tools/materials needed to build your own arrows? This would be handy for us newbies. For instance, BowWalker recommends Bitzenburger fletching jigs and mentions that some glues are good, some are crap. Knowing good from bad would be helpful, and it would allow us (i.e. me) to call around and get a package price from various vendors.

[sealevel]

franko heres what i would recommend ---if you want to buy a blitzinburger there the best but any single fletcher will do just fine. Shafts are your choice but i like goldtips. I would get vanes 4 inch for hunting if you shoot 3d go as small as 1 inch but its a personal choice. Glue i have tried all kinds but the one i like best is loctite gel -- get it at cambodian tire . I use the same glue for inserts to . I made an arrow saw from a sewing machine motor . no one can tell you what vanes you will like so just be like the rest of us and duy some of everything then you will be covered.----Oh one more thing get good vanes like duravane or blazers not those cheep plastic ones some sport shops sell.



merv

[Bow Walker]

Would someone be willing to compile a complete list of all the tools/materials needed to build your own arrows? This would be handy for us newbies. For instance, BowWalker recommends Bitzenburg fletching jigs and mentions that some glues are good, some are crap. Knowing good from bad would be helpful, and it would allow us (i.e. me) to call around and get a package price from various vendors.
Give me a day or two to think about this and compile a list with some choices for you and I will post it here.

In the mean time someone might come up with some very good ideas. Take the consensus of all opinions and you can't go too far wrong.

I mention the Bitzenburg fletching jig because I just got my jig up and running....it is a cheaper plastic one. A small mistake on my part - I should've spent the extra $$ and gone for a good metal one like the Bitz.

Plastic jigs tend to hold onto the excess glue that oozes out. Then you have to clean them up and stuff. Get a metal one, save some hassle.

You may want to do some searching around on the Internet for fletching jigs - pay attention to the one called Bitzenburg and to the ones called Jo Jan.

Talk to you soon.

Dan.

[FullDraw]

The way I look at it is if you have the gear to build arrows you have the gear to repair them as well that's why I bought the gear myself. Sooner or later your arrows will get trashed and it's a pain going to the pro shop to get them fixed.

Also I 2nd the metal jigs, I own a Jojan and a plastic Martin.

FullDraw

[Franko Manini]

Give me a day or two to think about this and compile a list with some choices for you and I will post it here.

In the mean time someone might come up with some very good ideas. Take the consensus of all opinions and you can't go too far wrong.

I mention the Bitzenburg fletching jig because I just got my jig up and running....it is a cheaper plastic one. A small mistake on my part - I should've spent the extra $$ and gone for a good metal one like the Bitz.

Plastic jigs tend to hold onto the excess glue that oozes out. Then you have to clean them up and stuff. Get a metal one, save some hassle.

You may want to do some searching around on the Internet for fletching jigs - pay attention to the one called Bitzenburg and to the ones called Jo Jan.

Talk to you soon.

Dan.

Thanks Dan and others,

This will be a big help.

Where are most of your gents purchasing your supplies and components?

[Bow Walker]

Well, I've thought long and hard on this....................and now I'm tired! (do you listen to Jack?)

Building arrows....what to get/have to do the job properly - it is my opinion that if you are going to do this you owe it to yourself to get the best equipment that you can afford, as it is an investment and it will pay dividends in the long run. With that in mind here is a list (I will try to steer you clear of some of the mistakes that I made.:frown: )

What you will need -
1. obviously a fletching jig of some sort. as mentioned a bitzenburg or a jo jan. do a little searching on AT or Ebay and you should be able to save a few $$$

2. shafts. your choice of which ones but some of the better ones are Gold Tip, Blackhawk Vapour, Beman, and Easton (although easton's are pricey for the same quality as others).

3. vanes or feathers. both have pluses but i don't know anyone who shoots feathers from a compound. Bohning and Vane Tec are the leaders here. bohning blazers are very popular - and for good reason. the 2" are great for hunting while the smaller ones do well for target and 3D.

4. glues. there are different types for vanes and for inserts, as well as for wood, aluminium, and carbon - be sure of what you are getting. people are particular about what brand they use, but two of the good ones (for carbon) for vanes are Fletchtite and Powerbond.

Gluing metal inserts into carbon shafts is tricky as this is what lines up your tip or broadhead. you want them to be true/square and you don't want them to move or come out. My brother and I have found that Goat Tuff works well here. the one drawback is that you need to set the insert quickly because the glue sets up really fast. really fast. the big advantage is that once done - forget about them moving or shifting on you.

5. an arrow saw. as mentioned before, Harbour Freight and Apple make saws that works well. set yours up very carefully, making sure that the arrow will be as square as possible once it is cut - the insert seats against the cut and that has to be square. again, do a bit of research here and save a few $$$. cut your shafts down to size from both ends - this will help preserve the "straightness" of the shaft.

6. an arrow squaring tool. Montec makes the only one to use. it is good for both carbon and aluminium. this will ensure that the cut end of your shaft is square. it's called an ASD (arrow squaring device). worth the money.

incidentals include -
- Cleaning alcohol. (not rubbing alcohol) you want the good stuff. go to a drug store.
- A vane removal tool. you can buy one or use a utility knife either way be careful not to cut int the shaft material.
- Some sort of an arrow stand to let things set and dry. a 2x4 with appropriate hole drilled into it works well here.
- A cleaning brush for the inside of the shafts. depending on the inside diameter of the shaft, you an buy a brass rifle bore brush and use that. i use the .30 calibre one - it works great. it roughs up the inside while removing old glue. just remember to clean with alcohol and dry it before gluing in the insert or nock bushing.
- Obviously you will need inserts, nocks, or nock bushings and pin nocks as well. the inserts usually come with the bare shafts when you buy them - just be sure to specify that you don't want them glued in before you purchase.

As to where to buy all this stuff? Check around town and then do some "surfing" to compare prices. Don't forget the shipping costs and/or the import and excise taxes. Here are some of the places that I frequent...

http://www.ca.nationalarcherysupply.com/index.html?lmd=39066.882951

http://host375.ipowerweb.com/~thewebst/northpro/catalog/default.php

http://yeoldearcheryshoppe.com/

http://shop.eaglearchery.com

http://www.huntersfriend.com/

http://www.mountain-archery.com/

http://www.bowhunterssuperstore.com/

http://www.fsdiscountarchery.com/index.asp

http://www.archerywarehouse.com/bowcases.html

http://www.keystonecountrystore.com/

http://www.lancasterarchery.com

http://www.obsessionarchery.com/

http://www.bohning.com/

http://www.archerycountry.com/index.asp


Now the disclaimers8) Buyer Beware. Inhaling Fumes Is Hazardous To Your Health. If You Glue Your Finger To The Inside Of Your Nose - Tough! Do-It-Yourself Can Be Addictive...Tell Your Wife Not To Shoot The Messenger.

If I have missed anything I trust others here to point it out...just do it gently.

[Franko Manini]

An impressive post Dan. Thanks to you and others on this site that are obviously dedicated to fostering the sport among new shooters!

This info is very helpful and will help me get my setup complete before I dive into the deep end.

[Spokerider]

Yes, a comprehensive list it is. Great post Dan.

And, I might add, that I was the recipient of BowWalker's kind offering, a feather burner free, to a good home. Thank you Dan for your generosity and the coffee:lol: I'll put it to good use.

Spokerider.

[The Hermit]

Hey Dan... could Franko and I intice you with beer and sausage to give us a little hands on demo of the process?

I found it REALLY helpful to have Frank "show" me the ropes when I started reloading... Seeing it done the first time makes all the difference.

[Bow Walker]

Hey Dan... could Franko and I intice you with beer and sausage to give us a little hands on demo of the process?
Not a problem. When you get your stuff, give me a shout and we'll set something up.


Thank you Dan for your generosity and the coffee:lol: I'll put it to good use. Glad you can use it - and thank you for the gift if those broadheads. I hope that we can hookup next season to put them to good use

Dan. http://smileys.smileycentral.com/cat/36/36_15_61.gif (http://www.smileycentral.com/?partner=ZSzeb001_ZSYYYYYYJOCA)

[Franko Manini]

[quote=BowWalker]Not a problem. When you get your stuff, give me a shout and we'll set something up.

Dan,

Thanks for the offer. I'll set down tomorrow and get some pricing done. Hopefully I can order all the stuff from one or two stores and ideally within Canada.

[Franko Manini]

Bow Walker,

Could I suggest that we make this thread a sticky? The info in your post regarding supplies is tremendous.

[Bow Walker]

Sorry Mr. Manini...........I'm not a mod on this forum.