Planing Broad heads

[pupper]

Is it just me or do you guys shoot your broad heads at a target and one round they can fly straight but then the next round the same arrow might pull a curve ball or a planing swoop? I made sure my broadheads were tuned/ spinning true. I am using thunderhead 100gr. any insight would help.

-Pupper

[Jetboater]

if one time your arrows fly true and the next time they dont , your bow needs some more tuning, just because your arrow spins well does not mean it spins true. simple adjustment of the the rest usualy solve these problems, sometimes a bow will not shoot a certainbroadhead very well, if you have the money try the montec G5 100 gr. they are one of the best broadheads I have shot in the last 10 years.

[steel_ram]

With the speed of modern bows, fine tuning your bow becomes very critical. There's even a book written specifically on tuning for broadheads.

Arrow construction, plunger pressure and knocking point all play roles. Shooting thru paper hanging a few feet in front of you will leave a hole indicating pitch and yaw of the arrow as it leaves the bow. Of course your release has to be perfect. I sacrifice a couple of broadheads and shoot into sand pits.

Hunting arrows are always new arrows to ensure there is'nt the slightest bit of bend.

[Brambles]

Is it just me or do you guys shoot your broad heads at a target and one round they can fly straight but then the next round the same arrow might pull a curve ball or a planing swoop? I made sure my broadheads were tuned/ spinning true. I am using thunderhead 100gr. any insight would help.

-Pupper

Need more info on your setup, more often than not, its bow tuning and setup. How much do you shoot?

What kind of bow, rest, release, draw lenght, draw weight, detailed specs about arrows, plus anything else about your setup.

It could be something as simple as torquing the bow or string.

[Bow Walker]

I had somewhat the same problem as you have described. I got the local bowshop guru (Bill Sampson - West Coast Archery bowtec@shaw.ca) to help with the tuning. A few adjustments, a few shots through paper from about 6 feet, another adjustment, and I was all set.

I did switched broadheads though. I had been looking at Razorcaps, they had caught my eye for several reasons.. http://www.razorcaps.com

I liked the look of them because there was not a lot of blade to catch the wind - and they look Lethal. I bought a package and tested them. Great results! No planning at all. Easy to sharpen. Cut on contact from head to stern.

Like others here, I set them up and shot into the sand pit to test them out. I shot three arrows from 20 yds, 30 yds, and 40 yds. Other than me perhaps not shooting straight these heads and arrows shot fine. I now use them almost exclusively - I also use Slick Tricks (another fine head).

Tune your bow, tune your arrows, set the table for a fine meal:grin:

[pupper]

thanks for the help guys,
next time I am going to buy fixed blade broadheads, either g-5 or razorcaps.

I heard that the vein of the fletching should be in line with one of the blades of the broadhead. How significant of a difference does that make?

-Pupper

[Bow Walker]

Right-hand helical fletching. Helps stabilize and spin the arrow/broadhead combination quicker than straight helical.....and as an added benefit the R.H. helical will induce tightening of the head rather than loosening.

Straight fletching for target points, but R.H. helical for hunting.