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Hadda
03-07-2010, 04:31 PM
I was wondering if anyone has tips for adjusting draw weight? I have a bowtech carnivore and i'm planning on bumping the draw weight from 50 to 55 then from 55 to 60 in a couple of months. Does anything else usually need to be adjusted/tuned after you change the draw weight?
I found this video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZqucemWgxXE

Bow Walker
03-07-2010, 05:08 PM
Make sure that you adjust the limb bolts evenly - an equal number of turns on each. You might not notice too much of a difference in actual pulling weight with just a 5lb change, but the further out you shoot the more your arrows will drop i n relation to your intended P.O.I.

You will notice a difference if you crank it up 10lbs. You'll have to re-sight your pins. Although a gang adjustment shoud take care of it.

Ambush
03-07-2010, 05:14 PM
Although a gang adjustment shoud take care of it.

With a ten pound adjustment you will have to reset each pin as your trajectory will be noticeably flatter.

BW knows that, he just got up from a nap:wink:

Sometimes your nock point may travel as well, especialy with a solo-cam bow.

Bow Walker
03-07-2010, 05:18 PM
Afternoon naps on a rainy Sunday are the cat's pj's....

Hadda
03-07-2010, 05:21 PM
Oh yeah I planned on having to dial my sight pins in again. In the video that I found the guy suggests checking the tiller too. Seems simple enough. Thanks!

Blk Arrow
03-07-2010, 09:27 PM
If your bow is properly tuned at it's current setting you might want to mark your limb bolts before making any adjustment. I like to draw a line from the center of the limb bolt to its outer edge toward the riser. When finished you should have to lines going toward each. It gives you a quick reference for either a full or half turn of the limb bolts.

willyqbc
03-07-2010, 09:47 PM
If you want to make sure everything is even, tigten the bolts all the way then work back from there obviously using equal number of turn on each limb.
One thing to watch for if you are very particular about your draw length being perfect is that as you turn the bow up, you will decrease the draw length and brace height of the bow. A 10lb adjustment could be up to a 1/4" draw length. One thing to note is this is usually much more pronounced on a bow with more "upright" limbs than it will be on a parallel limb bow.

Hope this helps
Chris

Bowzone_Mikey
03-07-2010, 11:25 PM
If you want to make sure everything is even, tigten the bolts all the way then work back from there obviously using equal number of turn on each limb.
One thing to watch for if you are very particular about your draw length being perfect is that as you turn the bow up, you will decrease the draw length and brace height of the bow. A 10lb adjustment could be up to a 1/4" draw length. One thing to note is this is usually much more pronounced on a bow with more "upright" limbs than it will be on a parallel limb bow.

Hope this helps
Chris

this is what I do when I set up a bow... I set the weight and then I tiller tune in 1/8 turn increaments to get the best grouping. ..My diamond is 1/2 top tiller ..my 101st is 1/4 bottom ... all bows are differant ... I set up an identical bow to my 101 (it turned out the serial numbers are only 4 apart) and his tiller was 3/8 top to get the best groups.

I also found that what Chris said is true about "upright limbs" On my old Hoyt Protec with 3000 limbs it worked out to 1/2" brace height differance over the 10 pound range of those limbs, I didnt notice that much of a draw lenth differance but there was a noticable differance probally about 1/4" .... but I just pulled hard into the wall anyway and was hung up on back tension release anyway