bow age

[pale rider]

does a bow get weaker with age,when looking at second hand bows,how old is to old,to buy and shoot.

[Bow Walker]

What type of bow are you talking about?

I, personally, wouldn't buy a "stick n string" bow that was over 10 years old.

A compound is different, though. They are made from more synthetic products, rather than living wood, so I'd consider buying a compound that was a few years (2 - 4 years) old.

Anything older than that and you would be buying "out-of-date" technology. Where's the value in that? It's like buying a 5-year old computer.

[Grantmac]

A properly designed and cared for stick bow will outlive the archer. Lots of guys shooting bows from the 60s, actually they are often sought out for being desirable; certain years etc.

That said if you don't know what to look for and how to spot subtle damage or stress. Then best leave the vintage stuff alone.

I often shoot a recurve that I know is over 30 years old.

-Grant

[Coyote]

Laminated recurves from the 50's 60's are as good today as they were the day they were made as long as they are undamaged. I have a 40 year old super Kodiak that shoots just fine. There are some good deals if you know what to look for.

'yote

[Onesock]

:)I have a bow that is 36 years old and shoots as good as the day it was made. It has also not lost 1 pound of draw weight. Technology is not always what it is cracked up to be.

[Bow Walker]

The reason that I'd not buy a trad bow that was old is that it is too hard to tell if the bow is in anything near good "shape". I would probably end up with a bow that had twisted or warped limbs.

I'd not buy a compound because of advancing technology.

My recent purchase of a longbow is one that I am having waaay too much fun with. I can make sure that the bow is kept in perfect shape and condition. So I expect to be using this bow when I'm a lot older than now.

[Jagermeister]

What type of bow are you talking about?

I, personally, wouldn't buy a "stick n string" bow that was over 10 years old.

A compound is different, though. They are made from more synthetic products, rather than living wood, so I'd consider buying a compound that was a few years (2 - 4 years) old.

Anything older than that and you would be buying "out-of-date" technology. Where's the value in that? It's like buying a 5-year old computer.I disagree with this post for the following reasons.

"Stick n string" bows can last a very long time if they have had the proper care by their owner(s). These bows are unstrung when not in use. Obviously, if the bow is left in the strung position, then a set in the limbs will take place and the bow will be rendered useless. If the finish of this type of bow is in pristine condition, then the owner has cared for the bow and took pride in ownership. Each bow should be judged on it's own merit.

Compound bows on the other hand are always under tension. While it is true that the materials in the manufacture of recent compounds, they will nevertheless take on a set over time, the length of time is dependent on the material used for the limbs.

I think it is safe to say that any compound bow made after 2000 would be a safe buy providing that it is in good shape. I have a 2001 PSE Carrera that rivals the IBO speed rating of bows of 2009 vintage, so you can see that new technology has not made any vast improvements in arrow speed. Equating computer redundancy to bow technology reduncancy is not a good analogy. Archery technology is just not advancing at the rate of computer technology.

Knowledge is essential when purchasing used bows. Recently, a young fellow that I became acquainted with showed me his new found deal in a split limb Fred Bear compound. He had the local archery shop deck it out with new sights and drop away arrow rest (I was a little dismayed that the bow shop owner had not picked up on this). The owner had shot it and complained that it had poor accuracy consistency. When I was able to inspect the bow, I discovered that the limbs were inverted and the arrows were being launched from the inside rather than the outside because of the incorrect cam placement. It got me wondering why the speed cam was on top and the idler cam was on the bottom. Of course the string was in bad shape and was in need of a new one. Who ever took it apart and re-assembled it sure did not know what they were doing either. The limbs looked to be in good shape, but with the situation with the limbs would have raised my level of caution about purchasing it. So, you can see from the opening statement of this paragraph, if you lack the expertise, take someone with that knowledge to check out your purchase.

One can never really tell if the bow was ever dry fired, you can ask, but would the seller really admit it?

[Bow Walker]

In rebuttal - about the compound technology advancement(s) - I had a '99/2000 Martin compound bow that I was very happy with until I got a 2006 Diamond bow.

The arrow speeds were very comparable, the A2A was within 1/2", the brace heights identical, in short the two bows were virtually the same. Except...

...except for the technological advancement of the "parallel limb" systems, and the advent of large idler wheels coupled with larger, softer cams.

Due to these advancements the newer bow was (and still is) far easier to draw and shoot than its predecessor ever was. It is a dream to shoot - even all day at a 3D tourney, whereas the older bow made shooting it at that same 3D event a chore by the end of the afternoon round.

Arrow speeds don't mean a whole helluva lot in the real world of archery. Very few people shoot the absolute minimum arrow weight, couple with a 30" draw length, coupled with a 70 lb bow weight...which is where they get those 340 - 350 fps arrow speeds from.:wink:

Trad bows suffer from dry firing as much (or possibly more) than compound bows do. Buying used has always been, and will continue to be, a case of "Buyer Beware". This applies to "used" anything.

I still much rather buy an older recurve/long bow than an older compound.:-|



I disagree with this post for the following reasons.

"Stick n string" bows can last a very long time if they have had the proper care by their owner(s). These bows are unstrung when not in use. Obviously, if the bow is left in the strung position, then a set in the limbs will take place and the bow will be rendered useless. If the finish of this type of bow is in pristine condition, then the owner has cared for the bow and took pride in ownership. Each bow should be judged on it's own merit.

Compound bows on the other hand are always under tension. While it is true that the materials in the manufacture of recent compounds, they will nevertheless take on a set over time, the length of time is dependent on the material used for the limbs.

I think it is safe to say that any compound bow made after 2000 would be a safe buy providing that it is in good shape. I have a 2001 PSE Carrera that rivals the IBO speed rating of bows of 2009 vintage, so you can see that new technology has not made any vast improvements in arrow speed. Equating computer redundancy to bow technology reduncancy is not a good analogy. Archery technology is just not advancing at the rate of computer technology.

Knowledge is essential when purchasing used bows. Recently, a young fellow that I became acquainted with showed me his new found deal in a split limb Fred Bear compound. He had the local archery shop deck it out with new sights and drop away arrow rest (I was a little dismayed that the bow shop owner had not picked up on this). The owner had shot it and complained that it had poor accuracy consistency. When I was able to inspect the bow, I discovered that the limbs were inverted and the arrows were being launched from the inside rather than the outside because of the incorrect cam placement. It got me wondering why the speed cam was on top and the idler cam was on the bottom. Of course the string was in bad shape and was in need of a new one. Who ever took it apart and re-assembled it sure did not know what they were doing either. The limbs looked to be in good shape, but with the situation with the limbs would have raised my level of caution about purchasing it. So, you can see from the opening statement of this paragraph, if you lack the expertise, take someone with that knowledge to check out your purchase.

One can never really tell if the bow was ever dry fired, you can ask, but would the seller really admit it?

[pale rider]

dare i interject a thought,is not the difficulty level in a hard to shoot bow proof of the high skill level of the archer.ie long bow,no sights,or let off etc

[Grantmac]

Yes and no.

Sure I can hit smaller targets further away with a compound then with my longbow.
But just because I can shoot traditional better than a lot of compound competitors could doesn't mean I have a higher skill lever.
Different skills sets are important for each type of shooting equipment and environment.

-Grant