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View Full Version : how to fix Alum boat ??



gary mok
07-01-2008, 11:31 PM
Hi I would like to try to fix a leak at the bottom of the Alum boat,so what kind of glue I can use ? something like silicon........?? where can I buy it from ?any help would be appreciated,thanks a lot !!! Gary

Allen50
07-01-2008, 11:44 PM
you can buy some Alum, sealer from a hardwear store, would be better then sillicone,,

lip_ripper00
07-01-2008, 11:52 PM
Hi I would like to try to fix a leak at the bottom of the Alum boat,so what kind of glue I can use ? something like silicon........?? where can I buy it from ?any help would be appreciated,thanks a lot !!! Gary

3M makes a product called Sikaflex (my spelling suks) good above and below the water line, great adheasive

gary mok
07-01-2008, 11:58 PM
3M makes a product called Sikaflex (my spelling suks) good above and below the water line, great adheasive
what is 3M ? where can I buy it ? thanks !!!

lip_ripper00
07-02-2008, 12:05 AM
what is 3M ? where can I buy it ? thanks !!!

What is 3M?:razz: www.3M.com (http://www.3M.com) Goto a marine suplyer and ask for it by name, unless your missing the bottom of the boat this stuff will seal it.

gary mok
07-02-2008, 12:12 AM
What is 3M?:razz: www.3M.com (http://www.3M.com) Goto a marine suplyer and ask for it by name, unless your missing the bottom of the boat this stuff will seal it.
LOL....... thanks buddy !!!

Barracuda
07-02-2008, 12:15 AM
stevston marine should have it

Gnarly
07-02-2008, 10:02 AM
best would be to layout and rivet a .040 aluminum doubler over the hole sealed with proseal 870 available at aviall. B 1/2 will give you a half hour pot life and B2 will give you two hours, 1/2 should be all you need if you work quick.
If you need more info Pm me

Deadeye
07-02-2008, 06:30 PM
Sikaflex is specifically made to do that job (made by Sika). The tube will say LOT291 on the label. It skins over in a couple hours but takes a lot longer to cure fully. Local humidity makes a difference as it needs moisture in the air to cure. I assume it's just a popped rivet or seam, but if it's a hole then a doubler as Gnarly suggested would complement the Sika as well. Rivets and seams are a problem in most older 'tin boats'

The equivalent 3M product is called 5200. Sika's easier to work and doesn't turn yellow in the sun but is a little more $$ than 5200. I can get it locally at the building supply.

CHECK THE EXPIRY DATE ON IT !!!!

I've probably got a part tube floating around here somewhere if you just need a bit and you're not picky about color.

Plincker
07-02-2008, 06:35 PM
I agree with Gnarly's suggestion, patching it is the best way to fix it if the holes that big. silicone or Sikaflex will wear out over time and the whole will increase if it's in an area that gets alot of beating on it. I use a product called Duraglass at work for filling small holes and cracks. It's supper durable and easy to sand too. If you decide to patch it and use pop rivets cover the rivets and seem with duraglass, Rivets don't last long in a marine enviroment!

Hope this helps abit, good luck.

Plincker

gary mok
07-02-2008, 07:02 PM
Thanks all you guys,I got it.

4ptbuck
07-02-2008, 08:40 PM
Gary did you buy a boat?
Best thing to do is bring it into Hy-Line and get them to weld the leak.
Remember how leaky my boat was...

Phreddy
07-02-2008, 09:32 PM
When all else fails, place the boat right side up, put enough water in it to cover the entire bottom about 4" deep, grab a piece of chalk and go underneath. Every place you see water dripping through a loose rivet, you mark with the chalk. Drain the boat, lay it on its side, get a friend on the other side to hold a large chunk of steel or sledge hammer head against the offending rivet, and pound the p*ss out of the offending rivet from your side. If the rivet has worn too big a hole around itself, drill it out and put a larger aircraft rivet (available at most places that sell aluminum boats) in and pound it down.
Nothing p*sses me off more than trying to cut through all the crap somefolks put on the bottom of a boat to repair a leak temporarily, so that I can repair it properly.
Best part of all? You don't have to wait for it to dry, set, or season before you use it next.

Deadeye
07-02-2008, 10:41 PM
Most tin boats will NEVER see new rivets. All will need them.
I agree with you in general (X10!), but not this application.

boxhitch
07-02-2008, 11:21 PM
On the same topic, I need to replace a portion of the keel on an aluminum car-topper that bit the rocks. Its U-shaped with a flange on both sides for rivetting in palce, need about 2 to 3 feet. Has anyone seen where this might be available to buy ?

spreerider
07-03-2008, 01:12 PM
i used roof patch compound, the black tar stuff with the fiberglass fibers mixed in, still works great.
make sure to use aluminum rivets, ss ones will cause your aluminum to corrode around the rivet.

Charlie
07-03-2008, 02:18 PM
I know this has been discussed almost to death, but may I suggest if you go the rivet route, you use solid rivets, and not blind rivets.

Solid rivets are much stronger, although you will have to shape it a bit with a hammer and block. More work, but will last a lifetime if done right. Next to welding a patch in, this is your best bet.

I had to do this to my little alumuninum and its good to go... Never to be worried about again.

Cheers..

Gnarly
07-04-2008, 07:00 AM
If you want to give it a go and do it properly , I'll loan you a 4x rivet gun, set and a bucking bar,cleco's whatever. Heck I might even have enough rivets kicking around depending on your patch size. It takes a bit of skill to properly upset a solid rivet with a hammer, and the rock I'd really like to see. Over driving ends up in a cold worked fractured rivet , Solids are the only way to go as has been said here previously and if you are going to do a doubler repair use the pro seal 870 that is designed to seal aircraft fuel tanks (aluminum). If your close by and have an air compressor hose and beer I'll come give you a hand.

Boxhitch is this piece your describing an extrusion? your local metal supplier or boat builder would be a good place to start, if its just formed sheet you should be able to work some .040 around a steel tube of the correct diameter to shape it.

shotgunjohn
07-04-2008, 07:28 AM
I've got to agree with Spreerider. Mine had some small cracks beside the rivets. I used roof patch over two years ago and it's still good to go.

gary mok
07-09-2008, 02:56 PM
Gary did you buy a boat?
Best thing to do is bring it into Hy-Line and get them to weld the leak.
Remember how leaky my boat was...
Hi Preston yes I did,Now I am looking for a motor from 7.5 up to9 hp /short shaft with gas tank and hose,anyone here has one for sale,let me know what you have ,thanks!!!

4ptbuck
07-09-2008, 08:19 PM
For running the river, go for a 9.9. There's been times where it came in handy on my 12 footer. You need it in real ducky (windy) weather.

On yeah, don't forget the anchor.... ;-)

gary mok
07-09-2008, 11:17 PM
For running the river, go for a 9.9. There's been times where it came in handy on my 12 footer. You need it in real ducky (windy) weather.

On yeah, don't forget the anchor.... ;-)
But there is a plate of regulation of my boat and said that for 7.5 hp,I am wondering if I put 9.9 on it,will it be too strong for the boat ?

4ptbuck
07-10-2008, 10:51 AM
what kind of boat did you buy? how big?

gary mok
07-10-2008, 02:31 PM
what kind of boat did you buy? how big?
12'foot long,capacity of 562 lbs,it weight about 100lbs,the name is called hobicraft something like this but it said max rate is 7.5hp,so it's ok for 9.9 hp ? thanks !!!

sparkes3
11-11-2008, 08:55 AM
i got a 9.9 on mine works great .get a long fuel hose for your tank so you can put your gas tank up front to keep it down.mine gets along pretty good for a small boat

sneg
04-06-2009, 02:55 PM
it can be little tricky to put 9.9 to 7.5 hp rated boat. transom may crack at full power and full load.make some reinforcement and you should be fine.