Bow Walker
10-15-2007, 10:08 AM
... and how to tune them to your arrows is one that can be a pain in the butt to try to accomplish easily. I've had luck with the heads that I use, so I thought I'd try an explain the process...it might help someone else somewhere, somehow.
You're going to need some type of arrow spinner - I use that "less expensive" Pine Ridge arrow Spinner - it works very well and is very portable.http://www.huntingbc.ca/photos/data/500/Pine_Ridge_Arrow_Spinner.jpg
First I take the arrows that I plan to use for hunting and spin test them all - looking at both the nock end and the tip end to see if there is any variance from "true" when it is spun. Any slight wobble will disqualify that shaft.
Then I'll weigh each of the 'good' shafts and group them together. I weigh each of the broadheads and group them together - noting all the weight groups. My broadheads of choice are Razorcaps, Slick Tricks and Montecs. They work well for me and also tune well for me.
The Slick Tricks have little 'washers' on the ends that lock the blades into the ferrule, and they can be difficult to get to spin true but persistence does pay dividends.
Next I'll look at the weight groups for the shafts and the heads...trying to match heads to shafts so as to come up with the same completed arrow weight (or as close to it as I can).
Once shaft and head are weight-matched I begin with the first head/shaft combo and assemble it. Next is the crucial spin test for that 'hunting arrow'. If it wobbles (or doesn't spin true) I will loosen the head and re-tighten it (sometimes that's all it takes).
Sometimes you need to try different heads with different shafts to find ones that spin true, or fits that particular shaft insert. This all starts back when you build your own arrows - making positively sure that the cut shaft is square, the insert is square and that the insert is seated into the shaft so that it is 'true'. G5's ASD is an essential tool for this process.
http://www.huntingbc.ca/photos/data/500/ASD.jpg
I work my way through, testing each head with each shaft until I have come up with the 'winning combo' for each hunting arrow. It's a matter of trial and error, and it takes a bit of time, but it is worth it in the end to have hunting arrows that fly true with your broadheads.
Doing the process in this manner, I have come up with a set of six arrows that will fly true out to at least 50 yards - as tested at the Vic Bowmen broadhead testing pit, here in Victoria. I've smacked a 500 ml plastic Coke bottle, hung from a string in the broadhead pit with a GT camo 5575 Expedition Hunter shaft tipped with a 100 grain Razorcap head using the above method (ask The Hermit, he was testing his heads at the same time). So it does actually work.
It may be too much like work for some people, but I am a tinkerer, and I enjoy fiddling with my equipment. I compare it to working up a load for your favorite rifle. It's enjoyable 'quality' time spent out in the Archery Workshop (photos of which, coming soon).
I hope this has shed some light on the subject and perhaps given a bit of incentive to an archery hunter out there somewhere to tune up your own hunting arrows.
*Disclaimer*...
no credit taken for coming up with this method - it works for me, but may not work for you. You won't know until you try.
You're going to need some type of arrow spinner - I use that "less expensive" Pine Ridge arrow Spinner - it works very well and is very portable.http://www.huntingbc.ca/photos/data/500/Pine_Ridge_Arrow_Spinner.jpg
First I take the arrows that I plan to use for hunting and spin test them all - looking at both the nock end and the tip end to see if there is any variance from "true" when it is spun. Any slight wobble will disqualify that shaft.
Then I'll weigh each of the 'good' shafts and group them together. I weigh each of the broadheads and group them together - noting all the weight groups. My broadheads of choice are Razorcaps, Slick Tricks and Montecs. They work well for me and also tune well for me.
The Slick Tricks have little 'washers' on the ends that lock the blades into the ferrule, and they can be difficult to get to spin true but persistence does pay dividends.
Next I'll look at the weight groups for the shafts and the heads...trying to match heads to shafts so as to come up with the same completed arrow weight (or as close to it as I can).
Once shaft and head are weight-matched I begin with the first head/shaft combo and assemble it. Next is the crucial spin test for that 'hunting arrow'. If it wobbles (or doesn't spin true) I will loosen the head and re-tighten it (sometimes that's all it takes).
Sometimes you need to try different heads with different shafts to find ones that spin true, or fits that particular shaft insert. This all starts back when you build your own arrows - making positively sure that the cut shaft is square, the insert is square and that the insert is seated into the shaft so that it is 'true'. G5's ASD is an essential tool for this process.
http://www.huntingbc.ca/photos/data/500/ASD.jpg
I work my way through, testing each head with each shaft until I have come up with the 'winning combo' for each hunting arrow. It's a matter of trial and error, and it takes a bit of time, but it is worth it in the end to have hunting arrows that fly true with your broadheads.
Doing the process in this manner, I have come up with a set of six arrows that will fly true out to at least 50 yards - as tested at the Vic Bowmen broadhead testing pit, here in Victoria. I've smacked a 500 ml plastic Coke bottle, hung from a string in the broadhead pit with a GT camo 5575 Expedition Hunter shaft tipped with a 100 grain Razorcap head using the above method (ask The Hermit, he was testing his heads at the same time). So it does actually work.
It may be too much like work for some people, but I am a tinkerer, and I enjoy fiddling with my equipment. I compare it to working up a load for your favorite rifle. It's enjoyable 'quality' time spent out in the Archery Workshop (photos of which, coming soon).
I hope this has shed some light on the subject and perhaps given a bit of incentive to an archery hunter out there somewhere to tune up your own hunting arrows.
*Disclaimer*...
no credit taken for coming up with this method - it works for me, but may not work for you. You won't know until you try.