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pupper
04-16-2007, 10:30 AM
Who builds there own arrows?

How much does it cost to by the equiptment to do it?

How much do you save per dozen arrows by doing it?

How time consuming is it?


I bet bowwalker builds his own:)

Bow Walker
04-16-2007, 10:36 AM
Yup!! and there are a bunch of people here that do the same. There are peope who build bows as well.

J_T
04-16-2007, 11:06 AM
I build my own. Woods take longer and I'm fine with that. I enjoy doing more art work on the woods.

Cost, depends on what you do to them.
Woods $2.00 each.
Carbons without tips $5.50 each.

How long, woods take more time two or three evenings of work followed by feathers etc. The carbons go pretty quick. I can throw together a dozen over the course of two days, doing work on them between everything else.

loki
04-16-2007, 02:03 PM
Could anyone share the information/steps on how to build your own arrows? Either that or could you provide a link of a good site to do so? I can't find good linkage to build carbon arrows, wood mostly says lathe.

pupper
04-16-2007, 02:21 PM
Could anyone share the information/steps on how to build your own arrows? Either that or could you provide a link of a good site to do so? I can't find good linkage to build carbon arrows, wood mostly says lathe.

And what site sells good equiptment for arrow building? bowhuntersupertore.com???

Bow Walker
04-16-2007, 02:45 PM
Could anyone share the information/steps on how to build your own arrows? Either that or could you provide a link of a good site to do so? I can't find good linkage to build carbon arrows, wood mostly says lathe.

loki.......try this for starters, let me know if you have questions.


This is sort of a continuation of the 3 page thread "Arrows - Build vs Buy" that was started by Franko Manini.............(do a "search")

This has to do with actually fletching your own arrows. This also assumes that you have a fletching jig and are conversant with using it - translation = you have read and understand the instructions and have the jig set up correctly.:smile:

Oh, BTW, at this point your shafts should be cut to the correct length and have the nock(s) installed.


BASIC FLETCH GLUING GUIDE FOR CARBON SHAFTS

by; Bow Walker (Dan):cool:




Start by removing the old or damaged fletching. Use a fletch removal tool or a utility knife for this step. Be VERY careful not to cut into the arrow shaft itself, as this will weaken the area.

Remove all the old glue. This step is critical, so make sure you get it all off. Many use very fine grit sandpaper for this step – whatever works for you.
Clean the end of the shaft with denatured alcohol. Don’t use “Rubbing Alcohol” as this will leave a tiny oil film on the shaft, which does not promote proper glue adhesion. Wipe clean with a lint free clean cloth. Do not touch the end with you fingers from this point on, as the oils in your fingertips can (and will) inhibit adhesion.
If you are fletching more than just one vane – do all the vanes up to this point and set each one aside as you proceed with the next one. Many people will use a thick piece of styrofoam and insert the shafts point first to let them dry properly. Keep these ready-to-fletch shafts away from your work area so as not to get them dirty or dusty.
At this point many people will again scuff the end of the shaft with a very fine grit sand paper. They do not clean the grit off before gluing. It is believed that the grit acts as a sort of gravel to your cement (glue) and thereby enhancing the adhesion of the vane to the shaft. Sounds OK to me – but I have not tried this method. I am in the habit of wiping the arrow after scuffing, as in step 4, and letting it dry. After the shaft is dry – insert it in to the fletching jig.
Do not touch the base of the vane with your fingers – remember the oils. Insert your vane (I like 2” Blazers with my broadheads and Mini-Blazers for field points) into the fletching clamp so that you can glue it in the desired spot on the shaft. After checking placement, put a small bead of glue down the center of the vane. It is easy to use too much glue at this point, but resist the urge. The bead will spread out to the edges of the vane base.
Lay the clamp onto the magnet of the jig and slide it carefully down to the arrow shaft. Apply a small amount of pressure to ensure a total vane length fit and leave it alone for a few minutes so that it can set.
After a few minutes, remove the clamp and turn the nock receiver to the next vane placement point. Repeat steps 6 thru 8 until your arrow is fully fletched.
Remove the fletched arrow from the jig and apply a small dab of glue to the front and back ends of the vane base. This will help prevent the vane from tearing off during a pass-thru of either target or animal.
Place each completed arrow point down in the foam and allow to dry thoroughly. Usually I let them sit overnight to be sure.

J_T
04-16-2007, 04:33 PM
To some, archery and supporting the commitment is much like an apprenticeship. While we can read about and experiment on ways to accomplish things, picking up the knowledge - the subtleties that make a difference - from someone that has a love and passion for it and is willing to pass along the experience is a great way to go.

interceptor
04-16-2007, 05:24 PM
I always make up my own.

The carbons for my compound are easy enough, most good brands of shafts come with all the info you need.

Good timber arrows are a different story, they can be a simple or as complex as you wish. A mate of mine knocks them up in no time, he does not even paint them. they are bent and wobbly looking bits of crap but he always shoots better than blokes who have the flashest looking gear (he is an excellent archer so that helps :lol: ).

Here is a set that I made up a while ago, I generally buy the blank timeber shafts, I buy more then I need that way I pick the best and give the rest to the club for practice shafts etc.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v487/interceptor429/hunting%20pics/a007.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v487/interceptor429/hunting%20pics/a006.jpg

Cheers Noel

Bow Walker
04-16-2007, 05:56 PM
Good looking arrows Noel.

pupper
04-16-2007, 06:17 PM
thanks for the info

what type of fletching jig do u recommend?

Bow Walker
04-16-2007, 06:32 PM
Well..........I know of three different ones in service by various members here. Bitzenburg, Jo Jan, and Bohning's tower jig.

I personally went the "frugal" route and bought a Grayling jig - it's plastic, rather than metal, but it works like a hot darn. I'm careful with it and treat it like plastic - not metal, as I said it works just fine.

Hopefully some others will add their 2 cents worth.

Bow Walker
04-17-2007, 08:31 AM
Good jigs can be found at almost any place that sells archery equipment. I was up at West Coast Archery on Saturday - Bill's got the Bohning jig in there, listed at about $60.00 I believe. That's what I paid for mine.

Give him a call and save some $$$
250 743 97453 home (after 6 pm)
250 710 8412 cel (daytime)

Nails
04-21-2007, 04:43 PM
I use the blitzenburg jig with a offset straight clamp. I have tried using right helical clamp but with carbon shaft diameter, I find using the straight clamp gives me a better fletching contact. The hardest part is keeping a steady hand running a bead of glue down the fletching. I found drinking coffee before is not a good idea.

Johnnybear
04-22-2007, 11:08 AM
Could anyone share the information/steps on how to build your own arrows? Either that or could you provide a link of a good site to do so? I can't find good linkage to build carbon arrows, wood mostly says lathe.

3 Rivers Archery has a couple of DVD's and books on the subject I got the wood arrow building one cause that's what I'm getting into.
Here's the link.

http://www.3riversarchery.com/Index.asp