Loose screws

[Bullmoose]

I've just acquired a well used Husqvarna 30-06 and the screws mounting the sling swivels are really loose. I'm not sure if it would be best to redrill and fill the holes with a wood or fiber glass plug prior to redrilling. Has any one encountered and solved this problem??

thanks

[pmj]

I would recommend plugging the holes with wood. I drilled mine out and installed a 3/8 wood plug. Grain does not match but it looks ok after I refinished the stock. I bought sling swivels with the nut and bolt on them which I will be installing shortly. The screw in type seem to always come loose.

[mtnmax]

I guess it depends how much or what you want to do to a well used gun.
My old gun had a scew loose so I just put some wood glue on the screw and put it back in. That was 3yrs ago and it is still solid.

[Steeleco]

Insert the screw with some 5 min epoxy. Not too much or else you'll have it all over the place. If it comes loose again then I'd follow PMJ tips.

[Bow Walker]

http://smileys.smileycentral.com/cat/23/23_33_8.gif (http://www.smileycentral.com/?partner=ZSzeb001_ZSYYYYYYJOCA) Wonder if any of those fixes will work on my brother's loose screw that's in his noggin'?http://smileys.smileycentral.com/cat/10/10_4_6.gif (http://www.smileycentral.com/?partner=ZSzeb001_ZSYYYYYYJOCA)

[bochunk2000]

http://smileys.smileycentral.com/cat/23/23_33_8.gif (http://www.smileycentral.com/?partner=ZSzeb001_ZSYYYYYYJOCA) Wonder if any of those fixes will work on my brother's loose screw that's in his noggin'?http://smileys.smileycentral.com/cat/10/10_4_6.gif (http://www.smileycentral.com/?partner=ZSzeb001_ZSYYYYYYJOCA)









I was waiting for that one Dan. Lol :lol:
Steve

[Bullmoose]

Thanks for the tips, I'll see what will work best

[Fisher-Dude]

If you decide to use a wood plug, chose some hardwood doweling and not a piece of soft pine from the woodpile. The pine will strip out right away. Best solution in my opinion is to glue in threaded metal inserts and use swivels with machine threads instead of the self-taping wood threads.

[30-06]

my screw in part of my stud would peel out out of it when i took it out so then it was loose/not holding so i ust put a bit of wood glue in there and then put the screw part back in at it re form the hole to fix my stud..work like magic now

[K-1]

You can tighten your hole (:roll: ) by putting some tooth picks in before you glue or epoxy it .

[pmj]

If you decide to use a wood plug, chose some hardwood doweling and not a piece of soft pine from the woodpile. The pine will strip out right away. Best solution in my opinion is to glue in threaded metal inserts and use swivels with machine threads instead of the self-taping wood threads.

Yes, I forgot:redface: . I used black walnut ( a hard wood) not soft wood. Threaded inserts sound great too if you can find the right size.

[Statler]

Just a quick tip on using epoxy for your repair. You can remove any "squeeze out" easily, before it sets, with a cloth dampened with white vinegar. Yes it works really well and will leave no residue.

[Mattimoose]

I've just acquired a well used Husqvarna 30-06 and the screws mounting the sling swivels are really loose. I'm not sure if it would be best to redrill and fill the holes with a wood or fiber glass plug prior to redrilling. Has any one encountered and solved this problem??

thanks

The last two Husky's I put Uncle Mike's QD's on did not require drilling-even, The honkin' big-ass arcane, Skandinavian, buttress-thread is long and heavy and if it's a little loose now, the generous Uncle Mike's thread will fill the gap. If it's an older Husky with Schnabel fore-end, Either put-in the fine Machine screw QD with threaded escutcheon/nut inside the forend or, better still, mount the swivel with a barrel band. The sleek Schnabelled, euro-forended Huskys kick like hell. I fired one in 9.3x62 once, whose sling-swivel took a bite out of my left index finger!

[Mattimoose]

If you decide to use a wood plug, chose some hardwood doweling and not a piece of soft pine from the woodpile. The pine will strip out right away. Best solution in my opinion is to glue in threaded metal inserts and use swivels with machine threads instead of the self-taping wood threads.

Hallelujah, brother, and remember not to go Ape-s__t, tightening the hell-out of everything as when hardwood cracks, it goes "Pow!" which is always followed by a sound like"F__K!"

[Mattimoose]

Insert the screw with some 5 min epoxy. Not too much or else you'll have it all over the place. If it comes loose again then I'd follow PMJ tips.

Sometimes there is oil in the wood which interferes with the epoxy, and a lot of times the epoxy then mysteriously never hardens and maintains the tensile consistensy of dry snot, A toothpick alongside the screw and some Weldbond or Elmer's white glue is a better fix. If the epoxy does set hard, good luck ever getting the screw out when you go to refinish it. It's like I do with persistently fidgetous or arseholic customers who never leave well-enough alone. They get the Red Loctite! Good customers get the Blue! Real c___-smokers get acraglass with powdered-glass and fibres! Minun, Kaksi Penniat!-My 2 cents in Finn

[Mattimoose]

Just a quick tip on using epoxy for your repair. You can remove any "squeeze out" easily, before it sets, with a cloth dampened with white vinegar. Yes it works really well and will leave no residue.

If you have liquid acra-glass bedding compound, measure some-out with a pin, 4 drops to-one and mix on a margarine container lid. It is also soluble with vinegar or Acetone but don't be a hero, get some rubber gloves and leave your eyelashes alone for a bit, they are fine. When the Acraglass "Kicks", the subsequent exothermic reaction momentarily gives it the consistency- almost of water and thusly gives superior penetration in hardwood. The clear liquid is almost invisible and makes a nice permanent job with hardwood dowel that is stronger than the parent wood.

The 5/16" hardwood dowels from Home Depot et al-are cheap and last forever. They are a driven fit for a 5/16" hole and are splined against rotation. Once the glue dries, judicious use of a dremel tool, saw or sharp chisel will remove the remainder promptly. Note too, the square, brad-pointed drill in a drill-press or mill with a stop or at the end of travel is obviated. Nothing sucks more than getting sucked-in, than getting sucked-in and splitting everything all to hell.

Try to use the 5/16' drill and dowels as the 3/8" can be seen under the whiteline washer or swivel stud which is 5/16" or larger. Also, if you are using the splined not from the back side, I am pretty sure it is 3/8" so you don't want to pull through. Use the square-shouldered. brad-pointed bit for that as well on the forend as it sucks as well. By nature, these bits also leave a centering "Teat" hole that is helpful, and the flat-bottom provides the strongest, least-likely to split hook-up and leave the most meat-read- the shortest distance between 2 points is a straight line. Again, don't be a hero, run-over to buddies and use his drillpress if need be, you know, the one with the stops.

Remember, the difference between Primates and other mammals is the ability to use tools.