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dan_plus_o
02-02-2007, 06:52 PM
I am wondering how far I should pull my compound bow back. When the cam turns over I can still pull it back a little bit. So should I pull back as far as it will go or should I pull it just when the cam turns over? When the cam turns over and I continue to pull I can see the limbs bend back from the point where the cam turns over to the point where I can't pull back anymore. Also when I pull it back all the way the arrow also sounds like it is shooting faster. It also affects where my arrow goes when I pull it back all the way or hold it right when the cam turns over.

It is an alpine Frontier 60-70lb pull, single cam bow.

sealevel
02-02-2007, 07:06 PM
pull it back all the way hard into the wall thats the only way to get a consistant release. I am not to sure but mayby your cam is a little to fast i am not femilaur with a single cam bow.

Bow Walker
02-02-2007, 07:14 PM
X 2..........draw back hard into/against the wall. Just don't compromise your form to do it.

dan_plus_o
02-02-2007, 07:29 PM
Okay. I should probably lower the draw length down a bit then, because it feels more comfortable to hold it right after the cam turns over. When I am pulling it all the way I feel like I am stretching a bit, and I also hit my forearm a few times when I was shooting like that. So I will lower it a 1/2 inch.

Bow Walker
02-02-2007, 07:39 PM
Good idea - you don't want to have a totally stiff bow arm, it romotes a high shoulder.

willyqbc
02-02-2007, 10:22 PM
Pulling "hard" into the wall is a great idea if you have a draw stop that actually stops on the limb. If you have a draw stop that contacts the string you can easily go beyond where you should. What you are describing could easily be "overotating" the cam....which would indeed increase arrow speed. Without seeing you shoot it's impossible to tell if you are just getting it to full draw or are actually overotating it. Any chance you can post up a couple pictures with the bow drawn in both the ways you describe with particular attention paid to the bottom cam???

Chris

Walksalot
02-03-2007, 08:25 AM
Some are designed to be shot from the valley and some from the wall. Regardless one should be aware that overdrawing a bow can cause damage to a bow.

dan_plus_o
02-03-2007, 08:34 PM
Okay, I will try and get a few pictures up.

Probably get them up tomorrow. It's my mom's birthday today.

dan_plus_o
02-06-2007, 03:12 PM
BUMP



Okay here are some pictures and I also got a video clip of the cam rotating.

Here is the video download link: http://d.turboupload.com/d/1499645/MOV00518.MPG.html

I drawed the bow back until the cam turned over then I held it for a bit. I then pulled back harder and the cam rotated a bit more.


Here are some pictures:

Overview (cam just turned over)
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a125/dan_plus_o/DSC00514.jpg

Overview (drawing bow back farther)
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a125/dan_plus_o/DSC00515.jpg

Close Up (cam just turned over)
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a125/dan_plus_o/DSC00516.jpg

Close Up (drawing bow back farther)
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a125/dan_plus_o/DSC00517.jpg


So is the bow being overdrawn when I draw the bow back farther like that?

jessbennett
02-06-2007, 07:32 PM
so is the first pic as soon as the cam rolls over??and if so, it then gets easier(letoff) and then you pull to the wall??so when it hits the wall, is that where you stop pulling or are you continuing to pull past the initial wall???? these alpine bows tend to have a long cushy valley, not a dead stop wall like some of the other bows out there.as chris said bows that have a peg draw stop that contacts the limb, makes it better to pull hard to the wall. i dont believe your bow has that and just looking at the pic you may be over drawing the bow abit.8-) just my opinion though. another little tip, try relaxing your grip hand a little:wink: try shooting a bit with a relaxed open grip, feels kinda weird to begin with but trust your sling. after you shoot keep that hand open, and keep the bow up until you hit the target. dont get into the habit of dropping you arm as soon as the shot goes off. have fun and enjoy your new obsession8) :lol:

Bow Walker
02-06-2007, 07:39 PM
I'm going to wait for you to answer jesse's questions before I post my comments.

4ptbuck
02-06-2007, 08:18 PM
It looks like you're overdrawing. The green module is the draw stop isn't it?

Bigbear
02-06-2007, 11:22 PM
I think Draw Lenght Is the Big Thing. You should be able to pull to the Hard wall and be At your comfortable Draw Length and anchor point . To long a draw length you can't get a proper Anchor Point. you will find your self moving your release hand around trying to get a solid anchor position. If it is to short You Might get a good anchor point, But your bow arm will have to great a bend. Also if it is to short, your bow arm will be ok , but your release hand will to far forward.:) It boils down to A slight bend in your Bow Arm, Anchor point the same position every time. an example for an anchor point might be along the jaw. Have fun and dont get frustrated. :)

dan_plus_o
02-06-2007, 11:45 PM
so is the first pic as soon as the cam rolls over??and if so, it then gets easier(letoff) and then you pull to the wall??so when it hits the wall, is that where you stop pulling or are you continuing to pull past the initial wall???? these alpine bows tend to have a long cushy valley, not a dead stop wall like some of the other bows out there.as chris said bows that have a peg draw stop that contacts the limb, makes it better to pull hard to the wall. i dont believe your bow has that and just looking at the pic you may be over drawing the bow abit.8-) just my opinion though. another little tip, try relaxing your grip hand a little:wink: try shooting a bit with a relaxed open grip, feels kinda weird to begin with but trust your sling. after you shoot keep that hand open, and keep the bow up until you hit the target. dont get into the habit of dropping you arm as soon as the shot goes off. have fun and enjoy your new obsession8) :lol:
The First and Third pic are right when the cam rolls over. The second and fourth pic are me drawing the bow back farther. I'm not sure what you mean by THE WALL, but as I said before I can continue to draw the bow back after the cam rolls over. Has anyone downloaded the video clip of me drawing the bow back? You can see how much more the cam rotates after the cam rolls over.


I usaly do shot with my hand open but I wasn't shooting then. Just taking some picture out on the deck.



It looks like you're overdrawing. The green module is the draw stop isn't it?

The green module doesn't touch anything. Is the draw stop suposed to touch somthing so the bow is not able to be drawn back anymore?

So should I set up my draw length so my anchor point is right when the cam turns over?

willyqbc
02-07-2007, 01:31 AM
Dan...the green portion of the cam acts as the draw stop by having the track contact the string as it rolls over. If the track (groove) contacts the string flush, you are where you need to be.....if it pushes the string enough to bend away from you then you are overrotating. (I hope I explained that clearly) Ideally your draw length should get the cam into this position while being comfortable for you.

Chris

Bow Walker
02-07-2007, 08:52 AM
I got this link from Alpine's website. Go to page 6, it shows DL adjustment on different cams. Hope yours is in there.

http://www.alpinearchery.com/downloads.html

The "wall" is at the back of the "valley" of the cam. When your cam rolls over into the letoff - that's the valley. When your cam is finished rolling over and stops - that's the wall. Some walls are soft some are hard. some valleys are shallow (short) some are deep (long).

dan_plus_o
02-07-2007, 01:25 PM
Okay, I get it now. So I am suposed to stop at the wall, but the bow can still be drawn back farther then the wall (when the green module pushes on the cable). Is it an easy thing to notice if the green module is pushing on the cable? Will I have to get someone else to look at it, or will I be able to see it when I draw the bow?

So I want to set it so the cam stops right when the green module touches the cable. And a good anchor point would be when the arrow nock is right under the shooters eye, right?


I got this link from Alpine's website. Go to page 6, it shows DL adjustment on different cams. Hope yours is in there. Yes its in there. Its the one at the bottom of page 6. That just shows how to adjust the draw length, which I already know how to do.

jessbennett
02-07-2007, 11:41 PM
so yes in pics 2 and 4 the cam is over rotated.... you can see it. notice how the string is not sitting flush on the green???8-)

jessbennett
02-07-2007, 11:44 PM
i dont know about others, but for me a perfect feeling draw length is when my string just touches the tip of my nose and my nock is just at the corner of my mouth. for me anyways. each person is different. some use a kisser button to help with anchor points also

Bow Walker
02-08-2007, 08:35 AM
i dont know about others, but for me a perfect feeling draw length is when my string just touches the tip of my nose and my nock is just at the corner of my mouth. for me anyways. each person is different. some use a kisser button to help with anchor points also
Good anchor points jess, seems very repeatable for you. Daw length is something that is very personal. It depends so much on several different variables.

Variables such as anchor points, arm length, and bow A-2-A among others. Axle to axle length dictates the string angle at full draw, which will either let the string just touch you or (on shorter bows) the string will be as much as an inch in front of your nose.

Mine is a 33" A-2-A and the string is about a half inch from my nose, I have to physically lean my head forward a bit to touch the string - but the important thing is that it is in line with my nose.

My new bow (a Diamond Liberty) gives me a solid back wall, which I can pull into and hold against. Many other bows have soft back walls, which are difficult to hold against. For instance my Martin has a mushy back wall.

So many variables.........

dan_plus_o
02-08-2007, 04:20 PM
so is this what you are talking about?

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a125/dan_plus_o/LINEDSC00517.jpg

The cable is getting bent there a bit so is that how you tell if it is over drawn?

So should I be shooting it right when the cam rolls over? or somewhere inbetween where the cam rolls over and where the cable starts to bend?

jessbennett
02-08-2007, 09:16 PM
just before cable starts to bend. when the cable sits flush on the green

Eagle1
02-08-2007, 11:47 PM
so is this what you are talking about?

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a125/dan_plus_o/LINEDSC00517.jpg

The cable is getting bent there a bit so is that how you tell if it is over drawn?

So should I be shooting it right when the cam rolls over? or somewhere inbetween where the cam rolls over and where the cable starts to bend?

Your overdrawing the bow, the string and the cam should be in one straight line, right where you drew the line,should be inline with string. over drawing puts more stress on the limbs and on your back muscels,sholder,rotator cuff.
Yes it's a soft wall, their other bows have a solid wall and you can tell when you are overdrawing them. Quite a few years back the two wheel bows didn't have any"wall" pull back into the let off ,settle into your anchor,lots and lots of practise to get the same results all the time, pull a little farther ,shot higher, don't pull enough,shoot lower.

dan_plus_o
02-09-2007, 12:06 AM
So right when the cam rolls over should be the spot I draw to.


This picture was taken right when the cam rolled over and the cable looks like it's flush with the green part of the cam.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a125/dan_plus_o/DSC00516.jpg

Bow Walker
02-09-2007, 08:26 AM
that's it.

Bow Walker
02-09-2007, 06:46 PM
dan_plus_o - try this link for some information. I hope it helps.

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=207391